A Realistic Review of My Bhutan Trip
Before even I start describing my trip, I would like to give a disclaimer about what I am going to write here.
Disclaimer:- I am an Indian. I am a Bengali (from west bengal state). I am Hindu and more inclined to science and technology than towards religion (realist). I dont hate any religion. It's not an ideal food paradise for Lactose intolerant /Chron's disease guys. Indian aunties and grannies should avoid wearing saree while visiting this place for their own advantage. Everyone should wear proper hiking shoes with good grip. Historical facts shared here are from my understanding of the book - Raven Crown by Michael Aris from Oxford University.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was with my wife and I took a flight from Kolkata International Airport. It was a Drukair (Royal Bhutan Airlines). There are 2 airlines operating out of Bhutan - Drukair (Government run airlines) and Bhutan Airlines (private operation). The flight time is roughly 1 hour from Kolkata to Paro International airport.
The time of Bhutan is 30 minutes ahead of Indian Standard time i.e., if it is 5:30 pm in India, it is 6:pm in Bhutan. Unlike most misconception, an Indian doesnt need a Visa and its related fees.Otherwise, its as strict and same as for any other country. You have to pass through Indian and Bhutanese immigration and your passport will be stamped during exit and entry in your passport by both Bhutanese and Indian immigration officers.
At the time of entry to Bhutan you will be asked about your length of stay and where you are going to stay (1st hotel name and location in your itinerary). You will get staying permit for Paro and Thimpu as far as remember. It is better to get permits beforehand through any travel agency or consulate of Bhutan at land ports or at Paro International airport.By the way, we were carrying our passports for Indians Passport is not mandatory.
The remaining procedure was pretty much the same when we exit India - Luggage drop and boarding pass collection, Immigration, security check and finally getting on to our plane. We made a little miscalculation, but I wont call it totally miscalculation. The miscalculation was that we left home on 14 night, stayed at Kolkata International Airport entire night (wide awake) anticipating that the luggage drop/Check-in would be starting from 3 AM and since, it was day before Durga Puja festivities so we will be able to avoid traffic jams.Moreover, we were anticipating that there might me problem with car rental as people night have booked for Durg Puja festivities. Neverthless, we found no traffic jam and we were able to reach Airport from Barrackpore in and around an hours time.
The check-in started at something after 5 AM!!! There were hardly 20-25 passengers and processing was not difficult. I was told that the aircraft will be before time and leave before time.So, the flight left before time too. I realised that flight was from Bankok and 90% filled with Europeans and Americans. It was pleasant 1 hour flight.
On Reaching Paro (15th oct)
We had our car and guide waiting for us. At the exit point of Paro International airport, there is a stall of Tashicell (Mobile operator) - I took a INR 600 data ( 3 GB ) + call package ( Rs. 300 ) for 15 days validity ( Think!!). I asked the lady at the counter to configure my mobile so that I can start using data and calling instantly. The SIM was pre-activated. Our first destination was Thimpu. So, we made the journey and since we had our Guide and Driver, we never had to be bothered about formalities. They called up the hotel - Hotel Dorji Element.
Hotel Review - Thimpu
I would rank Hotel Dorji Element as 4/5 in terms of overall service, food quality, customer servicing. On being late to serve our Lunch, they offered complementary food. Room service was available. Staffs were nice. Morning buffet breakfast was one with ample options with Indian and western pallet.Room heaters and geysers were working. We were allotted at the back of the hotel. In future, visibility of back rooms of this hotel will be largely restricted as construction of new real estate is ongoing.
Sightseeing Review - Thimpu (16th oct)
We reached Budhdha Point and entry was free. A small drive from our hotel and the exit portion of the place was under repair/construction. Budhdha Point is a huge statue of Budhdha with millions of small size statues and traditional design architecture inside the statue. Outside the perimeter walls were lined with statues of angels as visualized in Buddhism.
Then we went for Changangkha Lhakhang, oldest temple in the valley. There was no entry fee at the time when we visited. However, as we progressed with the tour we understood that the government is inclined on getting good money from tourism even from places of worship.
We visited Memorial Chorten which is build in the memory of one of the monarchs. As an Indian (SAARC member citizen), I had to caugh up 2 X INR 300 as entry ticket. This place seemed to be a big time hanging out place for old Bhutanese people offering prayers. Inside, there are statues which are inclined to tantric side of Budhdhism and many have demonic faces in sexual intercourse position at different levels of the Chorten. It was quite unique experience to see local deities in sexual intercourse position inside a memorial for the dead. We had the honour of using the restroom here too. My wife had pretty horrific experience here though. the female restroom was dirty and mostly used by Bhutanese people. The locals will not close the door to do their thing (talking about female restroom). There was no charges for using the restroom though.
We went to the city centre where the clock tower is, where we took our lunch.2 Suja (Butter tea - local speciality) and 2 plates momo. In West Bengal Momo is especially popular and we have food chains like wowmomo which specializes in differed varieties of momo apart from other hundreds of independent businesses. The food was cheap at INR 220 for 2 people.
We chose momo because we wanted to know the difference. Here, in west bengal it will come with a soup apart from chilli pickles. Everything was same but you won't get soup like we get in west bengal, India. I also understand Bhutanese people eat in large quantities.
After lunch we went for Zilukha Nunnery (female monks). There was no entry fee and we saw really 6-9 year olds'. We went inside the temple where idols are kept. It was no big deal place.
We further proceeded to Folk Museum (Entry fee for SAARC members - INR 50 per person) followed by school of 13 traditional Budhdhist skills (entry fee INR50 per person for SAARC member nations). It was interesting and we visited different classrooms. Taking pictures were allowed. Folk Museum too was pretty good and learned a lot about the artefacts, armaments, day to day usage traditional items of Bhutan for example Yak scrotum used as a storage space for oil. You are not allowed to take pictures inside the Folk lore museum and the stair cases are kept traditional and can be steep for old.
Then we proceeded to the Takin preserve. Entry fee is 2 X INR 100/person(possibly SAARC members). the so called preserve is a fenced section of a hill with takins on one fenced segment and barking+spotted deer on some other sections. There is nothing else.Seriosuly!! There is a nice cafe though and gift items counter though beside ticket counter to spend money ;-).
For 3 variants of animals, its a pretty steep price and if the same price would have been charged for such small return on investment, we would have a small riot.So, Bhutan government, if you are reading, maintain a balance between return on investment and price charged to tourists. We saw similar pricing in different Dzongs and other tourist attraction places.
2 nights for 2 people - dinner costed us INR 1152.
Travelling Through Dochulla Pass (17th Oct) for Punakha 2.30 hrs
We found Dochula Pass foggy. There are 108 stupas and entry was free. It was pretty crowded there and very cold. There was no entry fee. We found Dochula Pass foggy and cold (even by European and Bhutanese standards) both during going forward as well as on our way back towards return journey.
There is a restroom at the side which charges INR 10/person. Male restroom was pretty neat but I got the feedback from my wife that doors were not working for the female restroom.
Opposite to the 108 stupas there is a memorial built in the memory of the king by the queen. This place has a ticket (2 X INR.100/person for SAARC member citizens) and had a quite a neat view of those 108 stupas of Dochula pass from the top. Inside is a temple, there is a separate room inside the temple where it is written as forbidden for females. In that room, I found display of religious artifacts as well as display of old rifles to modern day rocket launcher, AK-47s.
We reached Punakaha and halted there for 1 night at punakha residency. The town is very small and goes to bed by 9 pm. We were not aware but ordered for buffet lunch. There were hell lot of items - Rice, dal (lentils), Ema Datshi, Pasta. For 2 people it was too much and much of the food was wasted.
The electronic door lock was not working. It was quickly fixed. We would spend the night here (dinner-A la carte +lunch -Buffet costed us INR 1425) and move towards Bumthang next morning after breakfast.
Ok! After lunch we went for Punakha Dzong. Entry fee was INR 300/ person (SAARC member citizens). It is considered as the most beautiful Dzong in the country as it is situated on the meeting point of 2 rivers and you have to cross a wooden bridge to go inside the Dzong. It was pretty much the same inside. In the evening we strolled on the banks of Punakha river.
Off we went for Bumthang (8 hours car drive), we started at 8:45 am from Punakha
En route we would cross Yotingla and Pelela passes respectively. These passes were not foggy and we found sun. The road is under construction and in many places under pretty bad shape. There were signs of past landslides, warning messages and apparent evidence of weak slope structure (I am a graduate in geography). So, dont attempt Bumthang and/or Phobjikha during rainy/off season. Phobjikha is always highlighted as the valley of black necked crane. Be aware that these cranes comes from Tibet after november. These birds can also be seen leh/ladakh area too. The birds are viewed at early morning or at night from designated posts set up with binoculars.
In Bhutan, 40 Km/Hr. is the maximum legal limit. On the way, the road was so bad that speed was reduced to 10,20, 40 Km/hr respectively.
Sightseeing at Jakar / Bumthang
Our guide informed us about the Seju festival will be conducted in Jakar Dzong. We went there and enjoyed the mask dance. It was like a picnic for the locals who were arriving in all forms of vehicles with food to spend their entire day in the Dzong.
Then we went for Jampey Lakhang and Kurjey temple (where royal families are cremated/buried). Based on feedback from local ladies visiting the Dzong there is no such designated place. On our way back we walked through Prar and Tamshing over a suspension Bridge. However, the suspension bridge at Punakha is the longest, we were not able to visit it though. We enjoyed the walk and it became extremely hot and had to remove our jacket and sweater.
Due to End of election and Seju festival the Bumthang town was almost closed. We were supposed to visit Swiss Firm but it was closed. We passed by Bumthang airport, which is the only domestic airport of the country. For me it was no better than a fenced meadow with a concrete strip in the middle.May be it will improve in the future.
After lunch on our second day stay, we were able to cover almost entire Bumthang city by 45 minute walking. Life here is very relaxed and laid back. Farming, religion, Tourism, Hotel/Restaurant business are the main industries. We are now getting bored with Dzongs but we dragged along. We are never that religious and the Dzongs are almost the same in terms of designs, internal murals. Inside every temple (Lakhang) there is provision to spend money in terms of food offerings, monetary donation, luck prediction by throwing a dice and the number will be interpreted by a monk and the king is omnipresent everywhere inside temples.
Hotel review - Bumthang/Jakar (2 nights) - River lodge
The room was wooden (floors and walls) but had no television. Bumthang is pretty cold compared to other tourist spots. The hotel was otherwise nice. Due to wooden doors and windows, wind will leak in and it was difficult to lock. Here, no electronic locks like previous places. There was no room service, the only hotel throughout the journey without room service for food. The view was nice from the hotel window. I could see the entire Bumthang valley along with the Bumthang river. The hotel also had very short lunch, dinner (7pm - 8 pm) and breakfast ( 7am - 8 pm). Food pricing in Bumthang is pretty steep whether inside or town eateries. Our Lunch in Bumthang town eatery costed us INR 625 for 1 rice+1 chicken+1 bottle 1 litre mineral water.
On our way to Phobjikha by car (6-7 hours), (1 night stay)
On the way we visited at Trongsa watch tower turned into a museum and Trongsa Dzong. Trongsa Dzong was dirty with cow shit. Trongsa Watch tower-cum-museum is pretty informative with video shows, as well as displays of important historical items related to theocracy and monarchy.
We also visited the Yatha shopping centre( Yatha is traditional yak wool/hair winter wear). The shop also had other souvenirs. Products were overpriced as per my evaluation. WE didnt buy anything.
We reached Phobjikha at about 4 - 4:30 pm. We visited Gangtey Gompa, we refrained from entering the temple section as we have to remove our shoes. We saw the courtyard and took some pictures. The space beside the restroom had wonderful view of the Phobjikha valley.
We left our car and started walking through the village and remaining through a wilderness bordering the valley with falling dusk. It was cold and windy. On the path we found 2 white horses standing on a windy trail and dusk falling with full moon up high. I will share the video later on somewhere here.
Next day drive towards Paro (2 nights - 21-22 oct), we started off at 8:30 am
We reached there by afternoon, checked into the Hotel. We took Lunch and visited Paro Dzong(entry ticket for SAARC member - INR300 per person). The lunch costed us INR350 for 2 people. Our guide, narendra, arranged for our taking picture wearing traditional dress. It costed us INR 200 per person.
On second day, we started climbing Tiger nest monastery by 10 am and reached the top by 12 pm. Entry ticket is INR500 per person (SAARC country member citizens) + INR 50 rent for stick. Please dont attempt tigers nest wearing sarees and wear proper good grip hiking boots. Some places are steep not only while going up but also at the time of coming down. My wifey and another lady slipped and fell on the steep slope on their way down. Thank God! it was not big accident. Carry 3 litre of water per 2 person going up. There are no restrooms in between cafeteria and actual tiger nest monastery as well as between base of the hill till cafeteria. I also saw horses to carry tourists till cafeteria and way down. The horses are pretty tired and injured, some were lying down on the ground. PETA and some other animal rights organizations should concentrate here too, along with the government. Bhutan government should concentrate on animal happiness index too apart from human happiness index. Locals believe that one should visit the tiger's nest monastery in odd numbers.
We took coffee (INR 240 for 2 people) from the cafeteria on our way down.Please do note that coffee was quite sumptuous too. I dont feel we were over charged for the coffee considering taste, quality and quantity. Food for driver and guides accompanying tourists are free. We decided not to eat lunch from there as it will be steep pricing due to monopolistic nature due to its position. We were not wrong and the food offered was buffet and we didnt like it even by the look.
We took lunch on 21st and 22nd Oct from city hotel Paro located on 2nd floor, Food was good. Our guide pre-booked our order before we reached there so that we didnt have to wait long.
We then went on to visit National Museum of Paro. The museum is pretty neat but not camera, BAGS, MOBILES,etc are allowed. You have to keep everything inside lockers. The first room is about masks of Bhutan, we found same masks in different walls (specifically the ox headed local deity of death - drawing parallels with Hinduism, Ox is pet animal of the head of death realm "Yama" and also a representative of Lord Shiva
Concluding remarks (best things kept for the last) ;-)
Bhutan is projected as a religious heart centre of Buddhism with mysticism and nature included. Dzongkha, the official language has officially come into vogue since 1960. Bhutan became part of united nations 22 years after India became Independent in 1947. Monarchy is quite new it only came after 1905. Previously it was theocratic state, where monks held both religious and political power.
It was a British protectorate but the British never attacked and conquered Bhutan. However, they did conquer all the Dooars areas of Assam and West Bengal 2-3 years after 1857 in retaliation to an insult made by the 1st King to a British mission.
There were 32 changes in Theocratic heads in 30-40 years prior to 1905, when Bhutan was a theocratic state. After India's independence, there was fear of Bhutan becoming an Indian state but India declined. There was also fear that Bhutan would become Chinese territory.
Bhutan has more connections in terms of religion and politics with Tibet than with India. All religious conflicts and bloodshed took place during festive seasons. There are several reincarnations and reincarnations were either spiritual, physical or speech. Every political lobby would put forward one of their candidates as true spiritual, physical or speech reincarnations and fight war with other competing groups. The second Monarch, had differences with theocratic head of Bhutan and imprisoned his family and arrested him. He died under questionable circumstances.
To prevent claims to the throne, relatives are either coerced or forced to remain unmarried. This practice is still in vogue. Currently, there is election and government but ultimate power rests with the Monarch.So, he enjoys real power but no responsibility for the well being of his subjects.
Southern part of Nepal has Limbu and Nepali population and not very old was Nepali Ethnic cleansing. Eastern part of Bhutan has language which is not Sino-tibetan rooted and completely different from remaining part of Bhutan. As a result, communication in Eastern Bhutan is difficult and it is still not ready to take tourists in terms of infrastructure too.
Dzongs were and still is places of political and religious centers. These are supposed to be historical monuments and high ticket prices are charged from tourists. But the government has drilled holes, built restrooms - in simple words modified it to suit the needs of running a modern administrative office from the same premises.
You have to understand Bhutan is a homogeneous country like China - same language, same culture, uniform religion, same food, same architecture, government controlled building specification, government controlled dress code. It makes it boring after a particular period of time. Over that such steep ticket prices for same things over and over again doesn't appear to be logical and value for money.
Buddhism here has taken tantric inclination. Tantric subsect is a Hindu religious sub-sect. We Indians dont perceive Buddhism with tantric connotations. In India, Buddha was a prince (Sidhdharth) and he renounced worldly riches then why so exquisite crowns over several Buddhist reincarnations and forms. We found it particularly offensive, when we saw a form of Gautam Buddha in sexual intercourse position in the top floor of Tronsa Museum built inside Trongsa watch tower.
We were unable to carry back home any dry packaged unique food items or desserts of Bhutan. There are no "dessert" dishes in Bhutan, the most common would be a mildly sweetened cheese cubes. Everything else is imported from India mostly and are common Indian brands.
Otherwise, people were nice, soft spoken, valleys and locations were nice.You can contact our Guide, we enjoyed a lot with him - Narendra Subba in this email - narendsubba000@gmail.com We would also like to recommend our driver for this 9 day journey Mr. Sangey (I dont have contact details of him).
Disclaimer:- I am an Indian. I am a Bengali (from west bengal state). I am Hindu and more inclined to science and technology than towards religion (realist). I dont hate any religion. It's not an ideal food paradise for Lactose intolerant /Chron's disease guys. Indian aunties and grannies should avoid wearing saree while visiting this place for their own advantage. Everyone should wear proper hiking shoes with good grip. Historical facts shared here are from my understanding of the book - Raven Crown by Michael Aris from Oxford University.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was with my wife and I took a flight from Kolkata International Airport. It was a Drukair (Royal Bhutan Airlines). There are 2 airlines operating out of Bhutan - Drukair (Government run airlines) and Bhutan Airlines (private operation). The flight time is roughly 1 hour from Kolkata to Paro International airport.
The time of Bhutan is 30 minutes ahead of Indian Standard time i.e., if it is 5:30 pm in India, it is 6:pm in Bhutan. Unlike most misconception, an Indian doesnt need a Visa and its related fees.Otherwise, its as strict and same as for any other country. You have to pass through Indian and Bhutanese immigration and your passport will be stamped during exit and entry in your passport by both Bhutanese and Indian immigration officers.
At the time of entry to Bhutan you will be asked about your length of stay and where you are going to stay (1st hotel name and location in your itinerary). You will get staying permit for Paro and Thimpu as far as remember. It is better to get permits beforehand through any travel agency or consulate of Bhutan at land ports or at Paro International airport.By the way, we were carrying our passports for Indians Passport is not mandatory.
The remaining procedure was pretty much the same when we exit India - Luggage drop and boarding pass collection, Immigration, security check and finally getting on to our plane. We made a little miscalculation, but I wont call it totally miscalculation. The miscalculation was that we left home on 14 night, stayed at Kolkata International Airport entire night (wide awake) anticipating that the luggage drop/Check-in would be starting from 3 AM and since, it was day before Durga Puja festivities so we will be able to avoid traffic jams.Moreover, we were anticipating that there might me problem with car rental as people night have booked for Durg Puja festivities. Neverthless, we found no traffic jam and we were able to reach Airport from Barrackpore in and around an hours time.
The check-in started at something after 5 AM!!! There were hardly 20-25 passengers and processing was not difficult. I was told that the aircraft will be before time and leave before time.So, the flight left before time too. I realised that flight was from Bankok and 90% filled with Europeans and Americans. It was pleasant 1 hour flight.
On Reaching Paro (15th oct)
We had our car and guide waiting for us. At the exit point of Paro International airport, there is a stall of Tashicell (Mobile operator) - I took a INR 600 data ( 3 GB ) + call package ( Rs. 300 ) for 15 days validity ( Think!!). I asked the lady at the counter to configure my mobile so that I can start using data and calling instantly. The SIM was pre-activated. Our first destination was Thimpu. So, we made the journey and since we had our Guide and Driver, we never had to be bothered about formalities. They called up the hotel - Hotel Dorji Element.
Hotel Review - Thimpu
I would rank Hotel Dorji Element as 4/5 in terms of overall service, food quality, customer servicing. On being late to serve our Lunch, they offered complementary food. Room service was available. Staffs were nice. Morning buffet breakfast was one with ample options with Indian and western pallet.Room heaters and geysers were working. We were allotted at the back of the hotel. In future, visibility of back rooms of this hotel will be largely restricted as construction of new real estate is ongoing.
Sightseeing Review - Thimpu (16th oct)
We reached Budhdha Point and entry was free. A small drive from our hotel and the exit portion of the place was under repair/construction. Budhdha Point is a huge statue of Budhdha with millions of small size statues and traditional design architecture inside the statue. Outside the perimeter walls were lined with statues of angels as visualized in Buddhism.
Then we went for Changangkha Lhakhang, oldest temple in the valley. There was no entry fee at the time when we visited. However, as we progressed with the tour we understood that the government is inclined on getting good money from tourism even from places of worship.
We visited Memorial Chorten which is build in the memory of one of the monarchs. As an Indian (SAARC member citizen), I had to caugh up 2 X INR 300 as entry ticket. This place seemed to be a big time hanging out place for old Bhutanese people offering prayers. Inside, there are statues which are inclined to tantric side of Budhdhism and many have demonic faces in sexual intercourse position at different levels of the Chorten. It was quite unique experience to see local deities in sexual intercourse position inside a memorial for the dead. We had the honour of using the restroom here too. My wife had pretty horrific experience here though. the female restroom was dirty and mostly used by Bhutanese people. The locals will not close the door to do their thing (talking about female restroom). There was no charges for using the restroom though.
We went to the city centre where the clock tower is, where we took our lunch.2 Suja (Butter tea - local speciality) and 2 plates momo. In West Bengal Momo is especially popular and we have food chains like wowmomo which specializes in differed varieties of momo apart from other hundreds of independent businesses. The food was cheap at INR 220 for 2 people.
We chose momo because we wanted to know the difference. Here, in west bengal it will come with a soup apart from chilli pickles. Everything was same but you won't get soup like we get in west bengal, India. I also understand Bhutanese people eat in large quantities.
After lunch we went for Zilukha Nunnery (female monks). There was no entry fee and we saw really 6-9 year olds'. We went inside the temple where idols are kept. It was no big deal place.
We further proceeded to Folk Museum (Entry fee for SAARC members - INR 50 per person) followed by school of 13 traditional Budhdhist skills (entry fee INR50 per person for SAARC member nations). It was interesting and we visited different classrooms. Taking pictures were allowed. Folk Museum too was pretty good and learned a lot about the artefacts, armaments, day to day usage traditional items of Bhutan for example Yak scrotum used as a storage space for oil. You are not allowed to take pictures inside the Folk lore museum and the stair cases are kept traditional and can be steep for old.
Then we proceeded to the Takin preserve. Entry fee is 2 X INR 100/person(possibly SAARC members). the so called preserve is a fenced section of a hill with takins on one fenced segment and barking+spotted deer on some other sections. There is nothing else.Seriosuly!! There is a nice cafe though and gift items counter though beside ticket counter to spend money ;-).
For 3 variants of animals, its a pretty steep price and if the same price would have been charged for such small return on investment, we would have a small riot.So, Bhutan government, if you are reading, maintain a balance between return on investment and price charged to tourists. We saw similar pricing in different Dzongs and other tourist attraction places.
2 nights for 2 people - dinner costed us INR 1152.
Travelling Through Dochulla Pass (17th Oct) for Punakha 2.30 hrs
We found Dochula Pass foggy. There are 108 stupas and entry was free. It was pretty crowded there and very cold. There was no entry fee. We found Dochula Pass foggy and cold (even by European and Bhutanese standards) both during going forward as well as on our way back towards return journey.
There is a restroom at the side which charges INR 10/person. Male restroom was pretty neat but I got the feedback from my wife that doors were not working for the female restroom.
Opposite to the 108 stupas there is a memorial built in the memory of the king by the queen. This place has a ticket (2 X INR.100/person for SAARC member citizens) and had a quite a neat view of those 108 stupas of Dochula pass from the top. Inside is a temple, there is a separate room inside the temple where it is written as forbidden for females. In that room, I found display of religious artifacts as well as display of old rifles to modern day rocket launcher, AK-47s.
We reached Punakaha and halted there for 1 night at punakha residency. The town is very small and goes to bed by 9 pm. We were not aware but ordered for buffet lunch. There were hell lot of items - Rice, dal (lentils), Ema Datshi, Pasta. For 2 people it was too much and much of the food was wasted.
The electronic door lock was not working. It was quickly fixed. We would spend the night here (dinner-A la carte +lunch -Buffet costed us INR 1425) and move towards Bumthang next morning after breakfast.
Ok! After lunch we went for Punakha Dzong. Entry fee was INR 300/ person (SAARC member citizens). It is considered as the most beautiful Dzong in the country as it is situated on the meeting point of 2 rivers and you have to cross a wooden bridge to go inside the Dzong. It was pretty much the same inside. In the evening we strolled on the banks of Punakha river.
Off we went for Bumthang (8 hours car drive), we started at 8:45 am from Punakha
En route we would cross Yotingla and Pelela passes respectively. These passes were not foggy and we found sun. The road is under construction and in many places under pretty bad shape. There were signs of past landslides, warning messages and apparent evidence of weak slope structure (I am a graduate in geography). So, dont attempt Bumthang and/or Phobjikha during rainy/off season. Phobjikha is always highlighted as the valley of black necked crane. Be aware that these cranes comes from Tibet after november. These birds can also be seen leh/ladakh area too. The birds are viewed at early morning or at night from designated posts set up with binoculars.
In Bhutan, 40 Km/Hr. is the maximum legal limit. On the way, the road was so bad that speed was reduced to 10,20, 40 Km/hr respectively.
Sightseeing at Jakar / Bumthang
Our guide informed us about the Seju festival will be conducted in Jakar Dzong. We went there and enjoyed the mask dance. It was like a picnic for the locals who were arriving in all forms of vehicles with food to spend their entire day in the Dzong.
Then we went for Jampey Lakhang and Kurjey temple (where royal families are cremated/buried). Based on feedback from local ladies visiting the Dzong there is no such designated place. On our way back we walked through Prar and Tamshing over a suspension Bridge. However, the suspension bridge at Punakha is the longest, we were not able to visit it though. We enjoyed the walk and it became extremely hot and had to remove our jacket and sweater.
Due to End of election and Seju festival the Bumthang town was almost closed. We were supposed to visit Swiss Firm but it was closed. We passed by Bumthang airport, which is the only domestic airport of the country. For me it was no better than a fenced meadow with a concrete strip in the middle.May be it will improve in the future.
After lunch on our second day stay, we were able to cover almost entire Bumthang city by 45 minute walking. Life here is very relaxed and laid back. Farming, religion, Tourism, Hotel/Restaurant business are the main industries. We are now getting bored with Dzongs but we dragged along. We are never that religious and the Dzongs are almost the same in terms of designs, internal murals. Inside every temple (Lakhang) there is provision to spend money in terms of food offerings, monetary donation, luck prediction by throwing a dice and the number will be interpreted by a monk and the king is omnipresent everywhere inside temples.
Hotel review - Bumthang/Jakar (2 nights) - River lodge
The room was wooden (floors and walls) but had no television. Bumthang is pretty cold compared to other tourist spots. The hotel was otherwise nice. Due to wooden doors and windows, wind will leak in and it was difficult to lock. Here, no electronic locks like previous places. There was no room service, the only hotel throughout the journey without room service for food. The view was nice from the hotel window. I could see the entire Bumthang valley along with the Bumthang river. The hotel also had very short lunch, dinner (7pm - 8 pm) and breakfast ( 7am - 8 pm). Food pricing in Bumthang is pretty steep whether inside or town eateries. Our Lunch in Bumthang town eatery costed us INR 625 for 1 rice+1 chicken+1 bottle 1 litre mineral water.
On our way to Phobjikha by car (6-7 hours), (1 night stay)
On the way we visited at Trongsa watch tower turned into a museum and Trongsa Dzong. Trongsa Dzong was dirty with cow shit. Trongsa Watch tower-cum-museum is pretty informative with video shows, as well as displays of important historical items related to theocracy and monarchy.
We also visited the Yatha shopping centre( Yatha is traditional yak wool/hair winter wear). The shop also had other souvenirs. Products were overpriced as per my evaluation. WE didnt buy anything.
We reached Phobjikha at about 4 - 4:30 pm. We visited Gangtey Gompa, we refrained from entering the temple section as we have to remove our shoes. We saw the courtyard and took some pictures. The space beside the restroom had wonderful view of the Phobjikha valley.
We left our car and started walking through the village and remaining through a wilderness bordering the valley with falling dusk. It was cold and windy. On the path we found 2 white horses standing on a windy trail and dusk falling with full moon up high. I will share the video later on somewhere here.
Next day drive towards Paro (2 nights - 21-22 oct), we started off at 8:30 am
We reached there by afternoon, checked into the Hotel. We took Lunch and visited Paro Dzong(entry ticket for SAARC member - INR300 per person). The lunch costed us INR350 for 2 people. Our guide, narendra, arranged for our taking picture wearing traditional dress. It costed us INR 200 per person.
On second day, we started climbing Tiger nest monastery by 10 am and reached the top by 12 pm. Entry ticket is INR500 per person (SAARC country member citizens) + INR 50 rent for stick. Please dont attempt tigers nest wearing sarees and wear proper good grip hiking boots. Some places are steep not only while going up but also at the time of coming down. My wifey and another lady slipped and fell on the steep slope on their way down. Thank God! it was not big accident. Carry 3 litre of water per 2 person going up. There are no restrooms in between cafeteria and actual tiger nest monastery as well as between base of the hill till cafeteria. I also saw horses to carry tourists till cafeteria and way down. The horses are pretty tired and injured, some were lying down on the ground. PETA and some other animal rights organizations should concentrate here too, along with the government. Bhutan government should concentrate on animal happiness index too apart from human happiness index. Locals believe that one should visit the tiger's nest monastery in odd numbers.
We took coffee (INR 240 for 2 people) from the cafeteria on our way down.Please do note that coffee was quite sumptuous too. I dont feel we were over charged for the coffee considering taste, quality and quantity. Food for driver and guides accompanying tourists are free. We decided not to eat lunch from there as it will be steep pricing due to monopolistic nature due to its position. We were not wrong and the food offered was buffet and we didnt like it even by the look.
We took lunch on 21st and 22nd Oct from city hotel Paro located on 2nd floor, Food was good. Our guide pre-booked our order before we reached there so that we didnt have to wait long.
We then went on to visit National Museum of Paro. The museum is pretty neat but not camera, BAGS, MOBILES,etc are allowed. You have to keep everything inside lockers. The first room is about masks of Bhutan, we found same masks in different walls (specifically the ox headed local deity of death - drawing parallels with Hinduism, Ox is pet animal of the head of death realm "Yama" and also a representative of Lord Shiva
Concluding remarks (best things kept for the last) ;-)
Bhutan is projected as a religious heart centre of Buddhism with mysticism and nature included. Dzongkha, the official language has officially come into vogue since 1960. Bhutan became part of united nations 22 years after India became Independent in 1947. Monarchy is quite new it only came after 1905. Previously it was theocratic state, where monks held both religious and political power.
It was a British protectorate but the British never attacked and conquered Bhutan. However, they did conquer all the Dooars areas of Assam and West Bengal 2-3 years after 1857 in retaliation to an insult made by the 1st King to a British mission.
There were 32 changes in Theocratic heads in 30-40 years prior to 1905, when Bhutan was a theocratic state. After India's independence, there was fear of Bhutan becoming an Indian state but India declined. There was also fear that Bhutan would become Chinese territory.
Bhutan has more connections in terms of religion and politics with Tibet than with India. All religious conflicts and bloodshed took place during festive seasons. There are several reincarnations and reincarnations were either spiritual, physical or speech. Every political lobby would put forward one of their candidates as true spiritual, physical or speech reincarnations and fight war with other competing groups. The second Monarch, had differences with theocratic head of Bhutan and imprisoned his family and arrested him. He died under questionable circumstances.
To prevent claims to the throne, relatives are either coerced or forced to remain unmarried. This practice is still in vogue. Currently, there is election and government but ultimate power rests with the Monarch.So, he enjoys real power but no responsibility for the well being of his subjects.
Southern part of Nepal has Limbu and Nepali population and not very old was Nepali Ethnic cleansing. Eastern part of Bhutan has language which is not Sino-tibetan rooted and completely different from remaining part of Bhutan. As a result, communication in Eastern Bhutan is difficult and it is still not ready to take tourists in terms of infrastructure too.
Dzongs were and still is places of political and religious centers. These are supposed to be historical monuments and high ticket prices are charged from tourists. But the government has drilled holes, built restrooms - in simple words modified it to suit the needs of running a modern administrative office from the same premises.
You have to understand Bhutan is a homogeneous country like China - same language, same culture, uniform religion, same food, same architecture, government controlled building specification, government controlled dress code. It makes it boring after a particular period of time. Over that such steep ticket prices for same things over and over again doesn't appear to be logical and value for money.
Buddhism here has taken tantric inclination. Tantric subsect is a Hindu religious sub-sect. We Indians dont perceive Buddhism with tantric connotations. In India, Buddha was a prince (Sidhdharth) and he renounced worldly riches then why so exquisite crowns over several Buddhist reincarnations and forms. We found it particularly offensive, when we saw a form of Gautam Buddha in sexual intercourse position in the top floor of Tronsa Museum built inside Trongsa watch tower.
We were unable to carry back home any dry packaged unique food items or desserts of Bhutan. There are no "dessert" dishes in Bhutan, the most common would be a mildly sweetened cheese cubes. Everything else is imported from India mostly and are common Indian brands.
Otherwise, people were nice, soft spoken, valleys and locations were nice.You can contact our Guide, we enjoyed a lot with him - Narendra Subba in this email - narendsubba000@gmail.com We would also like to recommend our driver for this 9 day journey Mr. Sangey (I dont have contact details of him).
Comments